Picot fans are immensely satisfying to crochet. With little effort, a lovely lace effect is created, and in this article, I describe how to adapt it into wearables. Instructions are provided for a simple collar, for how to increase when working the yoke of a top or a cardigan, and a downloadable pattern to make a summery cotton cardigan using this versatile stitch.

A picot is formed by (ch3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook). Standard US terminology is used throughout.

Convert the picot fan stitch edging into a collar, blouse or cardigan using these instructions.

The Collar

Find a free pdf-downloadable here: Picot Fan Collar

Repeat a picot fan every 9 stitches instead of 12 to make an outwardly biased curve that sits rather gracefully around the neck.

This is the easy part. Sewing it onto a neckline is tricky as any misalignment is starkly discernible. I use many pins and deep concentration.

Materials required

Yarn: Anchor Mercerised Knitting Cotton (Art. 4057, Colourway 101, Purple has been used here)
(Any thread- or fingering-weight crochet thread may be substituted using calculations given below.)
Yardage: ~100 yards, or about half a 50g ball
Hook: 2.5mm
A Button ~ ¾ inch size
Matching sewing thread and needle, to sew onto top


Gauge: 14dc and 6dc rows in 2” (standard US terminology is used)
Size: 25” inside circumference. Notes are provided to make a smaller or larger collar
Gauge is only important if exact size required

To fit any neckline, measure the neckline in inches (n).
Calculate gauge G=(no. of dc in 2”/2)
Calculate: x=(n*G)/9. Round it off to the nearest whole number and use as the number of desired picot fan pattern repeats.
Your starting chains will then number (9x+1).

Pattern Details

Collar is worked flat.
Use ch(9x+1) for different sizes, where x is the number of desired picot fan pattern repeats.

Written Pattern

Ch181, turn (for 20 Picot Fan Pattern Repeats)

Row 1: Ch2 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, and in every ch until end (181 dc), turn

Row 2: Ch2 (counts as first dc), ch1, *skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch1*, work ** until end (90 ch spaces), turn

Row 3: Ch2 (counts as first dc), ch1, *dc in next dc, ch1*, work ** until end (90 ch spaces), turn

Row 4: *ch5, sc in second ch space from hook, ch5, sc in second dc from hook*, repeat until end, turn

Row 5: ch5, sc in next ch5 space, *8dc in next ch5 space, sc in next ch5 space, ch5, sc in next ch5 space*, repeat ** to last ch5 space, ch5, sc in last stitch of row, turn

Row 6: ch3, sc in first ch5 space, *{(dc, picot) in first 7 dc of shell and (dc) in last dc of shell}, sc in next ch space*, repeat until end, finish

Stitches in the {} make a picot fan

Picot Fan Collar
Reduced crochet chart for a picot fan stitch collar. 20 pattern repeats were used of this chart to make the collar in the picture. The loop can be worked during rows 1 and 2 if you are skilled, or tacked on at the end if you aren’t. I added slip stitch edging to the loop, but omitted it here so as not to scare the easily scared.
Wooden buttons look rather nice on crochet collars.

Now for the cardigan itself. I started off with the collar, actually, and then made raglan-style increases until it spanned my shoulders and went around my arms and torso, just. Then I worked just the body until it reached my hips, skipping the armholes. If you are larger or smaller than the size described here, or are using a different weight yarn, then use the collar chart and the increase chart to adapt your own pattern.

increase chart.jpeg
This is how I make two pattern repeats in the space of one. This is all you need to know to make your own pattern.

The Cardigan

This one is made with Laura Knitting Cotton colour 926. This yarn is very easy to work with.

A charted pattern for this cardigan can be found here as a pdf-downloadable: Picot Fan Stitch Summer Cardigan

It has been a popular one, and I was able to test it for a number of interested parties who range from short and curvy to tall and bony. It is a versatile size with plenty of ease, and the picot fans can stretch without looking stretched quite easily. The finished piece is 34″ at the chest, and has satisfactorily fit 32″ and 36″ recipients.

1. Hook: 4.5mm
2. Yarns: Laura Knitting Cotton is an Indian DK-weight cotton yarn (colourway 926 is pictured here).
Coats Anchor 4-ply Knitting Cotton is slightly lighter in weight and works just as well (colourway 007 is pictured here).
3. Some 3/4″ buttons and needle and thread to sew them on.

1 pattern repeat in 3″
16 dc = 4”

The cardigan is worked flat in one piece, top-down. Each row starts and ends with 3 dcs that serve as the button and buttonhole edging. The ch2 used in lieu of the first dc of each row doubles as buttonholes, and fits a 3/4 inch plastic button.

The Pattern starts with 131 dc at the neckline, and 14 pattern repeats at every 9 dcs.

Raglan-style increase is performed at pattern repeats 3, 5, 10, and 12 for the second round of the pattern.

Raglan style increase is performed again at pattern repeats 2, 8, 11, and 17 for the third round of the pattern.

Now, the work is sectioned into body and armholes, 12 for the body and 5 for each armhole. To do so, work the first 3 pattern repeats, skip 5 pattern repeats and work the next 6 pattern repeats. Then skip the next 5 pattern repeats and work the last 3 pattern repeats of the row.

Continue straight until desired length is reached. Around 6 or 7 rounds of pattern for the body should cover most people.


This one was made using Coats Anchor 4-ply Knitting Cotton. It has a lovely sheen and is of much better quality. I will be using this one for all future gifting. I think swimsuits when I see it now. Wooden beads harvested from somewhere made fine buttons.
I considered stopping at this cropped length

All designs are my originals. Please link here or credit me when using my patterns. ©Lakshmi Ravi Narayan, 2017


One thought on “The Picot Fan Stitch – Collar and Cardigan

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